Lapin Agile, the Artists' Favorite Cabaret

The big rabbit painted on the wall gives it away: this is Lapin Agile, a favorite watering hole of Montmartre's artists. Take a seat on the bench out front and catch your breath. A hundred years ago, Picasso or Renoir may well have sat right there. The name combines "lapin" (rabbit) and "agile" (nimble), so it means "nimble rabbit." It also sounds like "lapin à Gil," the rabbit of André Gill, who painted the sign, so the name is a double entendre. The cabaret dates back to the 19th century and went by several names before taking on the cute rabbit sign you see today.

Picasso was a regular, and he loved the place so much that he painted a work called At the Lapin Agile. Artists came here to drink, listen to songs and socialize. Live performances were held here a century ago and still are. It can be a tight squeeze, but with no microphones or speakers, you hear real live music, just instruments and voices, which is part of the charm.

For a taste of Parisian romance, live jazz bars tucked around the city are hard to beat. Shows are most frequent on Fridays and Saturdays, but schedules vary, so check each bar's Facebook page or website before you go. Our guide's two picks are 38Riv and Le Noctambule, both by the Seine. Sightseeing is great, but an easy evening with a glass of wine and live jazz is a perfect way to soak up Paris.

Press play on the next audio as you walk to La Maison Rose.