Buttes-Chaumont: The Park Parisians Love

Your guide's favorite way to enjoy Paris is to picnic on a sunny day, lounging somewhere between sun and shade. When the weather is good, she skips other sights and heads to a park with a picnic mat and some snacks. With more travelers wanting to live like a local, and wanting some breathing room in a packed schedule, there's no better stop. If it's raining or the weather doesn't suit a picnic, a stroll works too, and if the weather is truly bad, feel free to skip this stop altogether.

The park is Buttes-Chaumont, in the 19th arrondissement in northeast Paris. It's away from the center, so expect 20 to 30 minutes of travel after your meal, but it's well worth it. From spring through fall, it can seem as if every young person in Paris is here, yet everyone is relaxed, which makes it a great place to soak up a European atmosphere. At about 25 hectares, it's said to be the fifth-largest of Paris's many parks, so even a crowd doesn't feel cramped. Its defining feature is its steep terrain. Climbing from the bottom can be tiring, but the view from above, of green parkland melding with the city skyline, is stunning. There are several entrances, and entering from the upper side makes getting around easier; entrance locations are provided separately in text. For shade, head to the lower part of the park; the upper part has less. You'll also find a large lake, cliffs and a waterfall, which add a cooling feel. A few bridges cross the park, and the longest, the suspension bridge Pont Suspendu, is said to have been planned by Gustave Eiffel, the designer of the Eiffel Tower.

Bring a light picnic mat. Parisians typically make sandwiches or pack salads, salami, fruit and dessert. When your guide wants a proper meal, she picks up pizza, burgers or fried chicken, or takes out brunch food. For small nibbles, grab cheese or snacks from a nearby supermarket. There are several near the park. Major French chains include Monoprix, Franprix and Carrefour, and there's also a chain called Casino, which many people mix up with something else. Beer or wine adds to the mood, but if you bring wine, don't forget a bottle opener.

One caveat: Paris doesn't have many public toilets, so beer may leave you worried. The park has some, but most aren't very clean. When she really needs one, your guide orders a coffee at a nearby café and uses its restroom. Some places let you use the toilet for free or for a small fee without ordering, so it doesn't hurt to ask the staff with a smile. Now let's picnic like a Parisian.