Saint-Germain-des-Prés: Paris's Oldest Bell Tower and Abbey

Saint-Germain-des-Prés is one of the oldest churches in Paris. Its best-known feature is the oldest surviving bell tower in the city, built around the 11th century and still standing after a thousand years. With thick, sturdy walls and small windows, it is a textbook example of Romanesque architecture, and it looks more like a fortress than a belfry.

■ The west façade Follow the tower down to the sculpture in the triangular gable above the entrance. It shows Saint Germain of Paris, the church's namesake and patron saint. As Bishop of Paris, he played a major role in the early history of Christianity in the city, and his burial at this abbey made it a pilgrimage site. Another statue stands to the right: Jean Mabillon, a monk and historian. Thanks to him, it became possible to tell authentic medieval documents from forged ones. He is considered one of the Benedictine order's finest minds.

Inside the porch, above the doorway, is a relief of the Last Supper, and at the top of the columns on either side you can find harpies, half-human, half-bird creatures. Look closely at the faces of the twelve apostles in the Last Supper: they bear hammer marks and damage left by the French Revolution. The Last Supper stands for salvation and the harpies for the evil and chaos that tempt humankind, and the two were placed together deliberately. These carvings are important surviving pieces of the medieval abbey.

■ The south and east sides and the courtyard Now head to the opposite side of the church from the one you walked down from the café. About halfway along, you'll find a side door and, to its right, a small garden with a statue. The bell tower is a thousand years old, but the church itself goes back a full 1,500 years. That's why the west façade with the tower is Romanesque while the back of the church is Gothic, as you can see from the flying buttresses and the changing windows. The thick, curved outer wall is the apse, which is still Romanesque, so this is one of the best places to see the shift from Romanesque to Gothic. Compare it with Notre-Dame at the end of the tour.

The statue at the garden entrance is Bernard Palissy, a leading ceramist of the French Renaissance and an important figure in the history of the decorative arts. Don't miss the Sèvres ceramic portico here. It was made for the 1900 Universal Exposition and is one of the few works to survive in its original form. The wall it is attached to is a remnant of the abbey, which is why this part, unlike the rest, is called a church and abbey. Made by the Sèvres national porcelain manufactory, the ceramic wall is regarded as a masterpiece of Belle Époque Art Nouveau. Its best-known piece is the Fountain of the Pastoral, which features a shepherd and might seem religious, but actually depicts an idealized country life.

■ History of the church Saint-Germain-des-Prés was among the most powerful abbeys, built to house a relic of the Cross brought back from a campaign in Spain. In the Middle Ages it was a self-contained community with its own court, library and school, and it later influenced the Sorbonne as well. Until the Basilica of Saint-Denis, now known as the royal necropolis, was established, this was also the royal burial site. From two Viking attacks to the French Revolution, it went through repeated decline and rebuilding.

During the Revolution, as at Saint-Thomas-d'Aquin, which you saw earlier, the religious order was dissolved, its property seized and the abbey destroyed. The difference is that most of Saint-Thomas-d'Aquin survived, was used as a warehouse and public space, and was eventually returned to the Church, and today it feels like a museum. Saint-Germain-des-Prés, by contrast, was turned into a temporary prison and a military gunpowder store, and an explosion destroyed most of the building.

■ Rue Saint-Germain and a hidden picnic spot The street you've walked from Saint-Thomas-d'Aquin to here was a hub of Bohemian culture, lined with salons and cafés where Parisian intellectuals and artists gathered, and a refined area where nobles and wealthy citizens lived. It takes its name from this church and abbey. The abbey's ideals of restraint and thrift sit alongside luxury brands like Louis Vuitton and Armani, a mix of opposites. It is said to be one of the few places in Paris where you can carry a luxury shopping bag without worry.

The garden you're sitting in is also a good, little-known picnic spot. Parisians eat lunch or nap here. Fruit and cheese from Le Bon Marché make a fine picnic here. On this tour, though, save your picnic for the Luxembourg Gardens.

■ Inside the church Saint-Germain-des-Prés is as full of surprises as Saint-Vincent-de-Paul, the first church on this route. A 19th-century restoration kept the medieval spirit but added lavish painted decoration, giving it a distinctive look.

From the central aisle, looking toward the altar, you'll see Romanesque columns painted red, blue and white, like the French flag. On the capitals, look for sculpted lions, eagles and human figures. Nearly every capital is carved, especially around the choir. Look up and the Gothic vault looks like a sky studded with stars. The medieval-style paintings on the walls face scenes from the New Testament against scenes from the Old. Walk along the ambulatory behind the altar, and the medieval sculptures and chapels give you the church's oldest atmosphere.

The Chapel of Saint-Symphorien is where Saint Germain was first buried, and a memorial slab marks the spot. It feels less like part of a grand church than like a tiny country chapel. Traces of an 11th-century fresco survive on the arch near the cross. The chapel didn't escape the Revolution either: priests who refused to swear an oath of loyalty were held here before being dragged away and executed. The red squares on the wall honor these victims.

The church also holds tombs of many people, from French royalty and nobles to scholars and artists. The most famous is René Descartes, author of "I think, therefore I am," and another is the heart tomb of John II Casimir, King of Poland. The tombs of Saint Germain of Paris and Jean Mabillon, whose statues you saw first, were also once here, but they were reportedly damaged and lost after the Revolution. Descartes's tomb was spared, but his head is missing.

■ Next stop Cross the street on the right as you face the church and keep going straight. Two blocks on, just before the small intersection with Saint-Sulpice, it's on your right. It's about a four-minute walk. Watch for traffic and obey the signals when crossing.