Place du Tertre, from Execution Ground to Artists' Square

Place du Tertre means "Square of the Little Hill." You probably know it as the place with lots of portrait artists, but long ago it was an execution ground. As Paris developed and artists began settling in Montmartre, it became the free-spirited art space it is today. The painters here each work in a style that suits their personality. It may look as if anyone can grab a spot on a first-come basis, but in fact each artist has an assigned place, and the city of Paris oversees them. The spots are so coveted that, as the saying goes, one of the current painters has to die before a place opens up.

Having beaten fierce competition, these are artists whose skill has been recognized. A portrait typically costs 30 to 50 euros, and it makes a nice, personal gift. Haggling is reportedly possible, but push too hard and you may end up with a lower-quality piece, with a line or two missing.

Once you've had a leisurely look around, head to the final stop on this journey, Sacré-Cœur. Watch out as you walk. If someone approaches with a survey form and asks you to sign it, simply say "Non, merci" and keep walking. Occasionally, such people ask tourists for money. They won't approach you aggressively or threaten you, so there's no need to worry; just ignore them and move on.