Château d'Auvers and a Journey Through Impressionism

Pass through the main gate and walk a little way uphill to the left to reach the ticket office. The Château d'Auvers was built in 1635 by Zanobi Lioni, an Italian banker with ties to the Medici family. It overlooks the Oise Valley, with quietly preserved scenery and superb panoramic views. In 1662 it was sold to Jean de Léry, who had the Italian-style building remodelled in the French style. The continuous terraces recall an Italian Renaissance villa, while the classical château sits comfortably with its French garden.

The grounds include Italian, French and English gardens. French gardens are known for their symmetrical, artificial geometry and for excluding large trees, a rule said to prevent assassins from hiding behind them. The orangery in the garden in front of the château takes its name from a greenhouse-like building where orange trees were kept. (Paris has its Musée de l'Orangerie, too.) In the old days, orange trees were highly prized, and a tree given by the king was a precious gift. An orangery was the glasshouse where they could be brought indoors when the weather turned cold. Some say the word "orange" itself comes from the French "or," meaning gold, and "ange," meaning angel.

In 1987 the local authority bought the entire estate and refurbished it completely. Since 2017 it has hosted a permanent multimedia exhibition, Journey into Impressionism, which I found deeply moving and highly recommend. Sadly, it runs in French only, but if you are keen on the Impressionists, it is well worth a visit. The show traces the history of Impressionism, from the inspiration artists draw to the artistic movement that follows it. It covers Monet, the father of Impressionism, Van Gogh and Gauguin, whose relationship is described as destructive, and Pissarro, presented as the socialist among the Impressionists. Upstairs, a small replica of a 19th-century artist's studio gives the feeling that someone is about to start painting. The collection is small, but soak up the atmosphere, then stroll the gardens, and the day's fatigue will melt away.

On your way to Dr. Gachet's house, try listening to Don McLean's "Vincent." Everyone knows the tune, but surprisingly few realise it is about Van Gogh. Written in 1971, it still sounds fresh, with a mellow voice and lyrical words. It was reportedly inspired by Van Gogh's The Starry Night (1889) and is a lovely song to play on a summer night under the stars.