Giverny: In Search of Monet's Garden

Giverny is a small village in Normandy, where Claude Monet's signature Water Lilies was born. It's famous for the house and garden where Monet lived for 43 years, until his death in 1926. Monet was one of the founders of Impressionism, and even the name itself traces back to him: in 1874, a critic who saw his painting Impression, Sunrise began using it mockingly for the group. Impressionists prized capturing nature as it changes with the light, and Monet did this beautifully through series, painting one subject many times to show how the same thing shifts under different light. Water Lilies is one such series, with some 250 paintings.

Your guide has been to Giverny four or five times and loved it every time. It's where she's seen the greatest variety of flowers in her life, and she felt that anyone living in such surroundings could only have painted such warm pictures. Sitting in Monet's garden, watching the willow leaves sway and water lilies drift, makes her feel as though she's in another world; the scene is so calming she could stay all day. Plenty of travelers come here for sightseeing, but many others want to sort out their thoughts while traveling, and this place suits them well. The garden is open only from mid-March to the end of October, so plan within that window.

Giverny is often paired with Auvers-sur-Oise, Van Gogh's village, for a day trip from Paris. In Auvers-sur-Oise she feels something like sympathy for Van Gogh, whereas Monet's house stirs envy. The interior is elegant, and the scale of the garden and pond is staggering for a private home. The contrast between the two masters' lives left her a little sad.

Visit the Musée de l'Orangerie to see Water Lilies before heading to Giverny, or go afterward for a fresh perspective. The Orangerie is a must for seeing Water Lilies. If you're not into art or don't have time for many museums, the Orangerie alone is fine, and an hour is plenty. There's also the lesser-known Musée Marmottan, devoted to Monet. It's not large, but it's essential if you love Monet, and it displays Water Lilies and many other works.

To reach Giverny, take a train from Paris Saint-Lazare to Vernon-Giverny station, about an hour. Book train tickets a day or two ahead. From the station, take a shuttle or the little tourist train for about 20 minutes; your guide prefers the little train. It doesn't run often, so check the schedule. Most visitors see only the house and garden, but the village is quiet and pleasant, so walk to the church at the end of the road. Monet's grave is there, and most people don't know it. Do look for it.