Paris Foreign Missions Society Chapel

**Exterior and architecture**

If you've found the corner building and the entrance, you're at the right place: the chapel of the Paris Foreign Missions Society. Traces of it can be found in Korean Catholicism, notably at Myeongdong Cathedral, so we'll go inside this one. Enter through the arched gate with a statue of the Virgin Mary, and the building ahead is the chapel.

Built in the classical style by a royal architect with the support of Louis XIV, who actively backed overseas missions, it resembles a temple, like the Chapelle Saint-Vincent-de-Paul you just saw, with a symmetrical layout, triangular roof and Roman-style façade. The chapel lacks three things: a bell tower, ornate sculptural decoration and gilding.

**Martyrs' room and crypt**

Follow the yellow arrow in the photo and you'll reach the part dedicated to Korean Catholicism and martyrdom. The room collects relics and records of missionaries martyred in Asia, including the wooden cangue-like frame that Saint Pierre Borie wore in Vietnam. It is also the room's emblem, so look for it.

There is more material on Korean Catholicism than you might expect: missionaries' records and drawings, documents on the persecutions and material about the martyr saints. Particularly striking are photos of blue-eyed missionaries in broad-brimmed bamboo hats and traditional Korean robes. What they wore was mourning dress. Joseon was a Confucian society, and a person in mourning clothes was not expected to answer questions, so mourning dress and a hat helped them evade checkpoints. The missionaries wrote in documents that the mourning clothes were "armor that protected us."

In the crypt stands a large stone memorial tomb inscribed with the names of martyrs and holding a reliquary. Relics are displayed on martyrs' feast days, so if a reliquary is out, look closely to see whose it is. With luck, you may meet a Korean martyr saint.

**Interior of the chapel**

This is the plainest and cleanest interior on the tour. Its features are a high ceiling and a bright interior. There isn't much decoration, but the stained glass on the theme of missions and spreading the Gospel is beautiful. On a sunny day, the stained-glass light dancing on the white walls and floor is lovely.

Look at one painting in particular. How many saints martyred in Korea does it include? The answer is four. With 17 figures in the painting, that's 24 percent.

**The Paris Foreign Missions Society**

You've just seen the headquarters chapel of the Paris Foreign Missions Society, which has worked across Asia. The society was founded for missions in Asia, and many of the early French missionaries to Joseon belonged to it. They attended a sending-off Mass in this chapel before leaving for Joseon. It also has deep ties to the saints martyred in Joseon, including in the Byeongin persecution. You can meet them again in the crypt of Myeongdong Cathedral. We'll tell more of the Myeongdong Cathedral story on the way.

**Directions**

The next stop is Saint-Thomas-d'Aquin. It takes about 10 minutes whether you walk or not, so we suggest strolling slowly while listening to the Myeongdong Cathedral story on the next track. The route is very simple. Obey the signals and cross carefully. With your back to the church, follow the road to the left. Go straight to the intersection with the Rue du Bac station on Metro Line 12. Cross in the direction you're going, as in the photo, then cross at the crosswalk in front of Deyrolle, a taxidermy shop and museum, and turn into the alley. At the end is Saint-Thomas-d'Aquin. For public transportation directions, see the photos on screen and [Learn more] at the bottom of the script.