Paris · Architecture
Luxembourg Gardens
Paris · Paris, France
Slip out of a narrow lane and a pretty building comes into view with the park entrance beside it. This is the Luxembourg Gardens, the place to picnic and feel like a Parisian.
■ The entrance and layout The charming building ahead is the Musée du Luxembourg, with the Angelina café beside it. The gate to the right of the museum, as you face it, is the park entrance. Stroll in and, when you find a spot you like, settle into one of the green chairs nearby and relax for a while.
The gardens were originally the grounds of the Luxembourg Palace, which now houses the French Senate. The design blends French and English garden features, with broad lawns and ponds. The large octagonal pond in the middle is famous as a place where visitors sail small boats, and boat races are not unusual on weekends. You can sit on the lawns only in specially opened areas, mainly in summer, so use the green chairs and benches placed throughout. The park holds 102 statues of French notables and mythological figures, and guessing who each one is makes for a fun game.
■ Luxembourg Palace The building beyond the central pond is the Luxembourg Palace. It was built by Queen Marie de' Medici, who came to France from the Medici family, and modeled on the Pitti Palace in her native Florence. The triangular pediment and symmetrical plan reflect Florentine Renaissance influence, while the steep sloping roofs and many chimneys are French. It first served as the queen's private residence and now houses the French Senate. It was once also used as an art museum, where an Impressionist exhibition was held. It was a favorite of many writers as well as artists, including Hemingway and Alexandre Dumas.
■ Medici Fountain If you see one more thing in the park, make it the Medici Fountain. At the end of a long channel stands a sculpture group. The two lovers below are the sea nymph Galatea and Acis, and the figure looking down from the rock is the one-eyed giant Polyphemus. The trees and statues reflect on the water, making it a famous photo spot, especially at sunrise and sunset.
■ Next stop Next is the Sorbonne Chapel, resting place of a major figure from a novel. With the Luxembourg Palace in front of you, exit to the right and you'll find the RER station. Cross at the crosswalk in front of it, then cross once more to the left, and from there go straight. When a small square appears on your right, the chapel is at its far end. It takes about four minutes.


