Paris · City Walks
Bateau-Lavoir, the Artists' "Laundry Boat"
Montmartre · Paris, France
This is Bateau-Lavoir, the lodging house where Picasso, Modigliani, Apollinaire and other artists once lived. The name translates as "laundry boat," a nickname given by Picasso's friend, the poet Max Jacob. As late as the early 20th century, Paris homes had no running water, so people did their washing at public washhouses, some of them boats moored on the river. The artists' communal residence looked a bit like one of these boats, and the nickname eventually became its official name.
Picasso, famed for Cubism, lived here, along with Modigliani, known for portraits of elongated faces with blank eyes, and Apollinaire, who wrote the poem "Le Pont Mirabeau." You might picture Picasso and Modigliani chatting over morning coffee about what to paint. That romantic image is partly true, but the building was rarely quiet: the artists' love affairs and breakups kept things lively. From here, the hidden love stories behind these famous names begin.
If the climb left you out of breath, take a seat on a nearby bench or at a café and enjoy the stories at your own pace.


