BHV: Practical Shopping, Parisian Style

Face City Hall and look to your left, and you'll see a building marked "BHV." Pronounced "Bay-Ash-Vay" in French, the name is short for Bazar de l'Hôtel de Ville, or "City Hall Bazaar," and it is the second-oldest department store in Paris, opened in 1856. The world's first department store is also in Paris: Le Bon Marché, which opened in 1838 on the south side of the Seine.

Unlike the department stores that focus on glamour and luxury, BHV is a large store selling everything from fashion to household essentials. Its motto is practical shopping rather than the intimidation of high-end boutiques. The highlight is the huge bricolage (DIY) department in the basement, where you can find just about everything for hands-on projects, including home renovation materials, woodworking supplies, paint, hardware, shoe repair materials, tools, and machinery. And since it sits in Le Marais, a district of fashion and shopping, you'll also find trendy pieces from young designers and brands popular with Parisians, all under one roof.