Vietnamese Food in Paris's 13th Arrondissement

Vietnam was a French colony from the 19th century and only gained independence in the 20th. After the Vietnam War, France also took in Vietnamese refugees. As a result, the 13th arrondissement in southeast Paris became a Vietnamese neighborhood, and here you can try a wide range of authentic Vietnamese food. Quality is fairly even and menus are similar, so you're unlikely to go wrong anywhere. It's very close to the real thing, so it's worth making the trip.

The narrator's favorite is Pho Banh Cuon 14, usually shortened to pho14. It's open nonstop from 9 a.m. to 11 p.m. and gets packed at mealtimes, so go a bit early or late. A couple of doors down the same street is Le KOK, with nearly identical food and prices; it's smaller but just as busy. There are plenty more Vietnamese restaurants around, so feel free to drop in anywhere.

Some popular dishes: pho, the rice noodle soup, needs no introduction. If you dislike cilantro, say "sans coriandres" and they'll leave it out. Because the French usually eat soups in winter, the dish ordered year-round is bo bun, a mixed noodle dish with raw vegetables, meat and noodles thinner than pho's, tossed in sauce. It's full of vegetables, fresh, and a crowd-pleaser.

Pho and bo bun are mains (plat). Popular starters (entrée) include nem, fried rolls filled with pork or chicken and vegetables, which always come with bo bun too. There's also goi cuon, the fresh spring rolls. You don't roll your own here; they arrive already rolled. Then there's banh cuon, steamed pork-filled rice rolls, the narrator's personal favorite: the wrappers are so thin and soft they're almost slippery, and they come topped with sauce. Bun cha, the grilled pork and cold noodle dish so popular abroad, is hard to find here, probably a matter of national taste.

Don't miss banh mi, the Vietnamese sandwich. Because Vietnam was a French colony, its food took on French influences, and baguettes stuffed with vegetables, meat, cilantro and chili became a signature street food. Khai Tri sells many varieties, all around 4 euros, along with papaya salad, goi cuon and a sweet tapioca dessert. It's open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., takeaway only.