A Quick Guide to France's Best-Known Chains

The French generally avoid big chain restaurants. According to several French friends, that's because chains don't use fresh ingredients, and because they clash with a culture that prizes individuality and originality.

Still, at train stations, airports and major tourist sites, where crowds are heavy and turnover must be quick, you end up using chains that trade quality for speed. The best-known are the bakeries Paul and Brioche Dorée. This is less a recommendation than a heads-up about what they are; locals don't seek them out except when they're at an airport or station.

Exki and Prêt à Manger, salad-bar chains with branches across Europe, not just France, are a surprise: they use very fresh ingredients and come up with creative salads and sandwiches, so locals use them too. Exki is stronger on its salad bar, Prêt à Manger on sandwiches. Both serve organic coffee, and the quality is a cut above what you'd expect from chains.

Eric Kayser is a bakery chain that locals use quite a bit. It's a bit upscale and slightly pricier, and has a reputation for quality in both bread and pâtisserie. Its best-known pastry is the financier.

Vegetarianism is also on the rise in France, as elsewhere in the world. Many restaurants now have vegetarian options, and some serve only vegetarian food. Cojean is one such chain, popular for its fresh combinations of vegetables and fruit, juices, cereals and coffee. There are more than 30 branches in little Paris alone. If you're vegetarian or just curious, it's worth a visit.

Finally, the bouillon restaurants covered in the traditional-cuisine chapter are a long-established chain with a very good reputation locally.